| 1. | The white leader communicates with the victim , then loudly gives the command to haul ( figure 2 ) 白队先锋和落难队员通话,然后大声给出命令往后拉。 |
| 2. | Getting the victim and his pack over the final lip can be awkward , and the white leader may need to lend a hand 把落难队员和他的背包从裂缝口拉上来可能有点笨拙,白队先锋可能得要伸手(拉人) 。 |
| 3. | The white leader now uses her prusik to stay on a snug belay with her team , and tells them to move forward , creating a bight of slack 白队先锋使用普鲁士结妥当地保护在自己的绳队上,告诉队友往前移动,把绳子松弛部分盘成绳圈(译者注:见图2 ) 。 |
| 4. | Because adrenaline is flowing , it is surprisingly easy to pull too hard and pin the victim against the crevasse lip , so make sure the white leader communicates clearly with everyone in the group 由于肾上腺素上升的缘故,很容易太过用力拉而把落难队员卡在了裂缝边上,所以白队先锋要确保和所有队员清晰的通话。 |
| 5. | The white leader can now prepare the lip of the crevasse for hauling by placing an ice axe under the haul rope ( make sure to clip the axe into another anchor further back so it can ' t fall onto the victim ' s head if the lip breaks ) 白队先锋这时候在拖曳绳(译者注:指黑绳)下面置入一支冰镐(确定将冰镐扣入较后位置的另一个确保点,这样如果裂缝边缘破裂的话,冰镐才不会砸到落难队员的头部) 。 |
| 6. | The white leader can now prepare the lip of the crevasse for hauling by placing an ice axe under the haul rope ( make sure to clip the axe into another anchor further back so it can [ chr ( 39 ) ] t fall onto the victim [ chr ( 39 ) ] s head if the lip breaks ) 白队先锋这时候在拖曳绳(译者注:指黑绳)下面置入一支冰镐(确定将冰镐扣入较后位置的另一个确保点,这样如果裂缝边缘破裂的话,冰镐才不会砸到落难队员的头部) 。 |